# Fixing my soldering mistake **URL:** \ **Category:** Hardware hacking\ **Created:** [October 23, 2020, 1:49am UTC](https://community.keyboard.io/t/fixing-my-soldering-mistake/4278 "2020-10-23T01:49:07Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 8
**Author:** ![Xerus](https://yyz1.discourse-cdn.com/flex031/user_avatar/community.keyboard.io/xerus/32/2902_2.png) [@Xerus](https://community.keyboard.io/u/Xerus)\ **Post date:** [May 19, 2022, 7:57pm UTC](https://community.keyboard.io/t/fixing-my-soldering-mistake/4278/8 "2022-05-19T19:57:12Z")
Hey, it seems I did a similar mistake. After replacing the “E” and “A” switches just fine, I replaced the “R” and “T” as they were failing, but now the whole left hand second row is down. The LEDs still all work, except for the on-press LED, which interestingly only works for the T key even though it does not type, this is better illustrated with a video: > **[39.68 MB file on MEGA](https://mega.nz/file/RYhh0Iia#3VTAHfMQf8o4XfkC9br4ZX1JAR6hw84Hy0yzj7CcoxQ)** Somehow I am not even able to upload images, so here a link to an image of the pulled out caps: > **[2.18 MB file on MEGA](https://mega.nz/file/0UJAjB5Q#vQsutPOTivF_l5xs2l8Y-ZBgUEVOzd7K-L22jwyuW5g)** Friends said it smelled like burnt wire, but I can’t really see anything wrong at the solder spots, though I have to admit I am very new to all this: > **[1.73 MB file on MEGA](https://mega.nz/file/FBxglZzD#oznQqPg1bewm-LMLgUMIbRW2S8RTcZW6ZSSpQFrqhnw)** Could it be that I damaged the contacts as Jesse warned in [Mechanical failure of keyswitch - #2 by coiley](https://community.keyboard.io/t/mechanical-failure-of-keyswitch/3236/2) ? Can I bridge the contacts as instructed in [Can't solder the new switch anymore. Solder doesn't stick to it](https://community.keyboard.io/t/cant-solder-the-new-switch-anymore-solder-doesnt-stick-to-it/4382) and make all the keys work? Any other advice? --- _[View the full topic](https://community.keyboard.io/t/fixing-my-soldering-mistake/4278)._