I wonder if it’s possible to have two separate USB-C ports on a single device, either of which could be used for both power and data.
Also, maybe there’s some way to make a device like the Model01 that can operate either connected with LEDs, or wireless without.
It is possible to detect enumeration, so whichever enumerates first, will be used. Then it’s the question of routing stuff there, but at least on the firmware side, this is very doable. Probably not with an Atmega, but something ARM-based.
This is also possible. We can detect if we’re connected wired, and then enable LEDs, otherwise treat all LED stuff as no-op. We can likely improve how this can be done, but it should be doable right now too.
Me again.
I just had an idea, when commenting in another thread, that the connector bars could be easily improved.
Currently, to connect all four lugs one has to start at the very top of the connector bar and slide along its full length, remembering to check 3/4 of the way down that the second pair of lugs is still aligned. But this is unnecessary and fiddly, particularly with the tented bar.
If you had a gap in the connector bar 3/4 of the way down, then the first set of lugs could be inserted or removed while the connector bar was only 1/4 of the way displaced. Alternatively, one could think of it as two short connector bars, one for each pair of lugs, connected together by a plain bar with no track.
Speaking of the tented connector, I really wish it had “feet” or something supporting it. I use this and like the angles and stuff, but the keyboard feels a bit unstable unless I put something under the keyboard. I use an old iPhone 4s in a TPU case… just to prop up the connector bar. There’s surely a cheaper, more elegant solution, haha.
…but if both the top and bottom sections have the same offset, both will need to be aligned in order to start the slider moving into place, which would make it more difficult to insert, because either one being slightly misaligned would prevent the other from starting. If it’s done as separate sections, have slightly different offsets and/or have the open ends of the slots wider, and guide the dovetail in.
Design it do you only have to slide it the length of the tabs (two sets of openings) rather than one long channel.
Yes, I recommend a block or box under the tented bar. 20mm thick is the sweet spot.
If the slot entrances were precisely the same distance apart as the lugs, then yes you have to align four things at once which is difficult. But if there is a small number of mm difference then you can align the top two, then align the other two, then push.
Well, you could slide the two sides on individually, so you wouldn’t need to align all four at once. And if the offsets are different, it’s best to make the hidden one engage first, because it would be easier to correct the alignment of the “top” slot.
I was calling the hidden one the top one. 
Sculpted key caps and a wood enclosure, or maybe a nice-looking black plastic enclosure for a travel version. Two sizes, maybe; but just mentioning the possibility makes me wonder if one would be a little too large, the other a little too small. Do hand-sizes have a bimodal distribution in the general population? Is that a naive question.
This is something we warn you not to do in the manual. If you’re using the tented center bar, you must be using the stands (or something else) to support the angle. Otherwise, the weight of the keyboard will cause the wood to wrap if you leave it sitting there day in and day out.
This is roughly how we had them in the beginning. They looked pretty cool.
We discovered that they just weren’t structurally sound…and they were actually harder get lined up.
If there was absolutely no track left then I can see how alignment would be tricky. But if the sides of the track were retained, just without the overhang that grips the lugs, then it would be possible to maintain alignment at one end by applying pressure.
Specifically, I’m thinking of a connector that looks exactly like the existing one, but with the bits I have painted white shaved back slightly.
Would it be possible for a future model to come with blank keycaps as standard? Or to pay extra to get a different keyboard layout pre-loaded?
It seems the first thing many people to is spend their time looking at building a firmware to change the layout to something non-QWERTY. I am using Dvorak, but I would be interested in trying ADORE if it was easy to switch to.
Something like a memory card slot that could load a temporary firmware, that wasn’t flashed to the device, and could be reset by simply unplugging the memory card and power off (remove USB cable, or in case of wireless a power switch).
In the not too distant future, you will be able to use Chrysalis (a desktop application, for all three major OSes) to change the layout of your keyboard, without having to flash anything.
That would be great indeed 
