My 12-DoF sit/stand setup, $31/DoF


I’m a believer in making one’s work environment adjustable… being in any fixed position does’t usually serve the body well.

With this setup, I can adjust height, distance from body, separation, and orientation – all independently, with 12 degrees of freedom (DoF):

  • tray:(in/out + up/down + pitch) (3)
  • L keyboard/R keyboard separation(1)
  • keyboard halves:( oll,pich,yaw) (6)
  • mousepad: (pitch, L/R) (2)

Its major components are Camvate camera rails, two annoyingly expensive mini ball heads and a fairly slick keyboard drawer by 3M.

All parts are on this Amazon list.

I’d like to change out the bottom mounts for a rosette style mount which provides more positive locking than the friction screw on the ball head, not to mention incorporating the anti-rotation pin into the setup, since there is some tendency for the mount to rotate, possibly with a quick release plate to make taking the keyboard elsewhere viable.

On order: a 2"x2" center mount touchpad to avoid having to go to the mouse so often…

Cost: keyboard drawer $150 + 2* $60 ball heads + $100 for the rails and clamps = $370.

Add another $100 for the touchpad setup for a $470 total. (not pictured)
But this also adds an additional 6 DoF, bringing the $$$ / DoF down by over 10% to $27 per degree of freedom.

Submitted for your amusement… happy to answer any questions… :slight_smile:

B>



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That setup is AWESOME! Was looking into the slide rail system.Can you update list? It appeared empty for me.

Strange. Here’s the link… it works for me even when not signed into Amazon… https://a.co/97Yp4GH

LMK if that doesn’t work for anyone else…

the primary source of play (lack of rigidity) is actually the plastic back of the keyboard itself. ill likely cut a 1/8thx4"x4" steel plate and add it to the mix… anyone have more clever solutions? Im primarily concerned with not adding thickness…

Nice! I’ve been thinking of building something like this. However, I was thinking about 3D printing instead, but I wasn’t sure if the parts would be stable enough. Makes sense to spend the money on the ball joint for sure, since that’s where the stress is gonna be at.

I looked at the parts list above on Amazon but it doesn’t say how many of each thing is required or how to assemble it, can you elaborate a bit?

Thanks for building this!

I will tomorrow. Ive replaced the ball joint with a z bracket, which is much more stable. Ive also switched to a different keyboard arm, I’ll have to look up the brand… It is more rigid and had better knee clearance. I used the old arm with a wrist rest from kickstarter/indigo to make fully independent wrist rest for the trackpad. This isn’t cheap to build. Maybe 5500, without the independent trackpad arm I’m waiting for about $50 more parts to move the rails under the mount to make it about 1-2" thinner still.

:slight_smile:
Attached are a couple pics of the newest revision .

It’s been a great setup and I recommend it. Besides and drill and screwdriver to mount the rails for the tray arm, you don’t need any tools, though a pair of pliers and some decent allen let wrenches help a bit.

Ergo works had the best price on the tray: 1x Workrite S2S Ultrathin System - 22" Track for $375.00 each

Z bracket :

Andoer Aluminum Alloy Z Flex Tilt Head Folding Quick Release Plate Camera Ball Head Stand Holder Max. Load 3.5kg for Canon Nikon Sony DSLR Tripod Slider Rail Stabilizer, $37 each.

Questions? Just ask.

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assembly instructions

trackpad assembly
1 tiny trackpad* -> cheese plate* w/velcro -> magic arm* -> single rod block*

2 keyboard assemblys:
keyboard half -> z bracket** -> fixed rod block**

upper assembly:
1 rotatable rod blocks* bolt to kbd arm* w/ wingnut/washer -> 1st short rod*-> trackpad asmbly and 2nd short rod*
repeat above w/ 2nd rotatable rod block*

then:
2 offset blocks*, top holes -> either side of short rods of upper assemmbly
2 long rods* -> offset blocks, bottom holes
2 kbd assemblies -> either side long rods
8 rod caps*-> rod ends

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Wow! Thanks for posting all this!

Regarding the Z-Bracket, you said it was much more stable than the ball joint, but don’t you then lose that DoF (forward and backward) for adjustment? Am I missing something?